Attractions in Lamu County
29. Friday Mosque
Not to be missed on any trip to Shela is a look-see of the Friday Mosque, easily recognized by its 18 ms tall conical minaret approached by a spiral staircase of fifty eight steps. Covering 291 m2, this is one of the oldest Mosques at Shela and Lamu, whose pillar draws architectural influence from Omani style prevalent in 1800s. Redolent of Lamu’s nobility days, it was built during the same period as the Lamu Fort. Unique to Friday Mosque at Shela is its minaret. These are rare. At Lamu Island, only this one exists. Absence of minarets has been attributed to possible influence from Ibadhis, a purist Muslim sect who fled from Iraq during the 10th Century and settled, among other places, in the M’zab area south of the Sahara in Algeria where they founded a chain of townships. Until the arrival of Shafii sharifs at the East Africa Coast, the salient Muslim sect was Ibadhi. This Mosque follows the high involvement ratio scale of streets and open spaces at intimate levels. It has also had the effect of reducing the “personal space” of the Swahili to a minimum. The prayer hall of Friday mosque hosts the entire male population of Shela during Friday noon prayers. It is located near Peponi Hotel.
30. Forodhani House
On arrival at Shela Jetty the beautiful Forodhani House, christened as “a dream house along the beach of Shela”, provides an epistrophe example of Shela’s fine architecture. Forodhani, the Swahili equivalent of “look-out post”, enjoys a first rate location right on Shela Beach overlooking the vibrant jetty, the village and the Indian Ocean, which separates Lamu Island from Manda Island. Built in authentic Swahili style and exquisitely finished, it sleeps comfortably 10 to 12 people, in 5 en suite bedrooms ( 3 double and 2 triple), all with breathtaking but peaceful views. At ground floor, a fully quiped kitchen, the dining terrace with zidaka niches, a large lounge alongside the pool offer lots of different areas to take it easy in. “From the terrace of the 1st and 2nd floors, you overlook the whole channel and the view gives onto Lamu Town and the whole Archipelago. At your feet, the sails of the dhows skim the house, aiming for Lamu, Manda or the open ocean. On the roof terrace, the view is really staggering.” – Forodhani
31. Peponi Hotel
Rather unmistakable for its bright roughcast outer wall finished with uncoursed coral in lime coat, with a seafront restaurant raised to head level of pedestrians en route Shela Beach and the relic carronade (a short large-calibre cannon) still in original position oriented seaward, Peponi Hotel has been a landmark resort at Shela Beach since 1967. Run by the Korschen family who happened upon the old building by chance in the 1960s while on holiday at the Kenyan Coast, they converted the aged Arab style house to one of the finest boutique hotels in this area. The hotel has a choice of 28 ocean-facing rooms, each with a unique decor and lay out. Guest have a choice of superior or standard rooms; superior rooms being differentiated by their location, size and private outside area with swing bed. All the rooms have ensuite bathrooms, overhead fans inside the mosquito net and safes. Unique to Peponi Hotel are its gardens. A medley of exotic plants and tropical palms collected from around the world. The elegant and variegated gardens have over 90 different palm trees, delightful flowers and atypical herbs. Over the past 45 years it has introduced palms from Asia, Europe, North Africa and South America to create the one-of-a-kind colorful tropical paradise. Their sought-after restaurant and watering-hole are an epicenter of activities at Shela.
32. Shela Beach
Peponi Hotel and Fort at Shela, sited 700 ms southerly, mark the gate posts for the more popular section of Shela Beach. This sits at the extreme southeast tip of the helmet-shaped Lamu Island along Lamu-Manda Channel. As you round the bend at Fort at Shela, westerly heading, the longer 3 kms section of Shela Beach with the open ocean before you unfolds spectacularly. At the west end of this section of Shela Beach the sand is interrupted by thickets and swamps. On the other side is the small village of Kipungani, from which a road runs parallel to the shore to Matondoni and continues in a southerly direction towards Lamu Town 4 kms away. Both sections of Shela Beach are laid back with hardly more than a handful of trippers. The first is liked because of its convenient distance, the picture-postcard setting with Manda Island ahead and the hulking dunes at the back. What’s more, the umpteen vessels sailing along the channel offer fine views and the locals abode seldom pass by without exchanging warm waving greetings and pleasantries. Sun and sand is dainty here. You simply walk there, find a shaded patch on the dunes to stow carry-ons (perfectly safe) and enjoy, sometimes to yourself, a most memorable beach. There are a handful of good seaside eateries (near Shela Jetty) to grab a snack or meal, to include: Peponi, Bahari Restaurant, Stopover Restaurant and the Luq Tabassam Cafe. A word of advice is necessary is here: Shela and Lamu are, overall, conservative societies and dress code matters. As a rule of thumb when heading to beach from Shela, cover up fittingly. You can acquire a local shuka or a local “dirra” dress at Shela.
33. The Fort at Shela
The impressively audacious and luxurious square courtyard Fort at Shela Hotel, which reenacts and honours the old Omani-Style architecture, opened it doors to the public in 2001. Reminiscent of the venerable Siyu Fort, the Fort at Shela, justly earning its status as one of the iconic hotel establishments in Lamu, is an epitome of both privacy and seclusion. True to the Omani style architecture, the accentuation is on the enclosed spaces inside and not the exterior articulation. “The Fort is constructed of local coral stone and is enclosed by an imposing 50-foot high sandstone wall. The large Omani style heavy wooden entrance doors, decorated with iron studs, open onto the main floor of the property, where large arches surround the central courtyard. The living area, lower dining area and lounge look onto the aesthetic pool and the beautiful garden”. For lodging, the Fort at Shela has 9 en suite double rooms of which 7 look out to the courtyard. Sunset dhow trips can be arranged. It’s located on the south end of Shela Beach.
34. Boat Trips
One of Shela’s biggest attractions is its proximity to the Manda channel, which offers a picturesque sight, more spectacular than anything you have yet seen, that is the highlight for many holiday-makers. But there’s more to it than meets the eye. To make the most of your holiday in Lamu a boat trip, on a boat of one kind or another, relaxes as you pursue the reposeful sunsets. It is the next best thing to paradise provided in good weather which at Shela and Lamu is almost a guaranteed success. Reasonably priced, boat trips in Lamu are worth every penny. Experiencing Lamu seaward as you take in the sights seems far removed from the island life. Imbibe unlimited drinks and picnic en route. A sought-after boat trip, best on motorized canopied boats or jahazi, depending on the weather and tide, is a tour around Lamu Island going clockwise by following the channel between the mainland and Lamu Island with a stopover on the beach of Kizingo and, if time allows, a visit to either Matondoni or Kipungani villages. It takes on average 2-4 hours depending on the means, motorized boat, jahazi or dau. It is a worthwhile trip at any time of day but highly recommended as a sunset cruise.
A trip to view Lamu Port and Pate Island along the mangrove lined channel, stopping briefly at Manda Toto Island, is a relatively easy daytime trip. Another common boat trip is around Manda Island with stopovers at Ras Kitau, Takwa Ruins, Manda Toto Island and Lamu Town. For the more adventurous at heart who have done away with the shorter trips, a visit to Kiwayu with organizational arrangements for lunch on the island is a full day’s trip with notable sights. The pièce de résistance is a 3-day trip from Lamu to Zanzibar and back. The price of any trip depends on number of travellers and distance involved. A round trip of Lamu Island on average is USD 30; higher of lower depending on your haglling skills. Don’t shy from driving a good bargain because they are expecting it when they quote a price, usually higher than they expect. Plenty of boat are available at Shela or Lamu Jetty. On arrival at Shela Jetty you might feel hassled by many dhow captains to venture on their boats, but, once settled in, they are amiable and always friendly. Most, if not all, are very well-informed on the local area. In any case, ask your host or the manager of your hotel to recommend a good boat.
Abiri Kenya 