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Attractions in Lamu County

1. Delta Dunes Lodge

Situated 35 kms north of Malindi en route Garsen and Lamu, this is probably the only place in the Coast Region of Kenya which properly showcases the Tana River Dunes at the river’s mouth juxtaposed with virgin beaches and the open ocean. Once a tiny lodge with just one cabin in 1982, Delta Dunes Lodge is now famous for its pretty vistas, spectacular bird life, comfortable ambiance and all-round unique adventures. The lodge has seven-open fronted cottages perched on top of sand dunes on the side of Kipalo Hills, with a large central common area, and is the perfect location to experience these rare natural thrills for a day or two before heading out to Lamu. “It has fabulous views overlooking the Tana River on one side and the Indian Ocean on the other. Delta Dune is an Island Lodge”. Access to the lodge is from the B8 Malindi-Garsen-Garissa Road. After an hours drive from Malindi you reach a pick-up point where the host with a small boat waits for you to get you across Tana River. In 20 minutes, you are at the commendable Delta Dunes Lodge formerly known as the Tana Delta Lodge.

2. Witu Forest Reserve

Lamu’s terrestrial, inter and sub-tidal ecosystems carve out an interdependent continuum, divided into habitats dominated by keystone species of mangrove forests, sea grass and corals. Of these, forests cover about 34% of Lamu’s land surface area. What’s more, 428 km2 (or 64%) of this forest cover is gazetted and protected against commercial exploitation. These include 382 km2 of mangrove forest and the 42 km2 Witu Forest Reserve, one of the two dense rain forests in Lamu alongside Dodori National Reserve. Non-gazetted forests cover another 280 km2 comprised mainly of Lingi and Boni Forests, and Lake Kenyatta buffer zone. By road to Lamu, Witu Forest Reserve is crossed by C112 Garsen-Witu-Lamu Road between the towns of Witu and Pangani. Best known as the main source for hardwoods used to furbish the unique and ornately decorated doors seen widely on Lamu Archipelago, it was gazetted as a National Forest Reserve in 1927. Witu Forest Reserve contains plenty of wildlife and is a vital migratory corridor, but remains untapped for tourism. It is located 53 kms west of Garsen.

3. Amu Ranch

The 259 km2 Amu Ranch, a little-explored corner of Kenya located adjacent to the Witu Forest Reserve, is a sanctum for endemic wildlife species like the rare Somali Lion and Ader’s Duiker. It also hosts spectacular marine life and varied bird-life in its variegated biosphere comprised of a coast, a forest and mangrove areas. Amu Ranch was underway as a group cooperative in the 1970s instigated by its community who were anxious to protect their land. Their efforts in trying to safeguard these unblemished 64,000-acres of land, much larger than several of Kenya’s famous national parks, were at the onset unsuccessful due to lack of resources and support. Now stabilized through Lamu Conservation Trust’s solid foundations, Amu Ranch and its community have for many years been actively protecting their land, diversity and cultural heritage. For tourism, Amu Ranch has 28 kms of fairly smooth parkways which are motorable year-round. “It is a picture-book wilderness of open areas fringed by Doum and Raffia palms and huge coastal trees such as Baobabs, Tamarinds, Bambakofi (Mahogany) and Figs with rain-filled pools and small lakes adorned with blue and white water-lilies and abundant birdlife everywhere” – Daphne Sheldrick. Half and full day tours at Amu Ranch need to be booked in advance at: otm.amu2@yahoo.com or through 704 748 739. It is reached via a 30 minutes boat ride from Lamu Town.

It was the first time I had been to Amu Ranch, and it was, indeed, a most memorable visit. Omari Twalib Mzee who heads Project Amu met us at the jetty where we landed by boat, accessing Amu through one of the many mangrove creeks whose watery fingers reach into the mainland.  We drove the short distance through herds of coastal topi to Farouk’s Camp, one of two of Amu’s base camps. Built by the Amu staff, the camp was simple but extremely practical, made purely from natural materials.  The Amu team is an inspiration, here everyone does everything, and we were treated to a royal welcome by the Amu rangers. – DSWT  

4. Kipini Conservancy

Situated near Lake Kenyatta, the expansive inter-territorial Kipini Conservancy (shared by Tana River and Lamu Counties) is among the best preserved coastal areas, with an ecological medley that’s both wondrous and quite unique, skirted by Tana River Delta and parts of Witu Forest Reserve. It is, also, a shelter and wintering habitat for loads of migratory bird populations. Kipini also provides a safe haven for the vulnerable indigenous shore birds. Moreover, archaeological sites containing the ruins of a stone cemetery, minarets and varied intriguing historic buildings are enticing for a great historical adventure. The forest itself, consisting of purely of natural trees and vegetation, is rich in terms of resources thanks to its rare trees having multiple uses to include timber usage, medicinal value, among others. Some of the trees thriving in Kipini Conservancy include; Dume plams, Triclulia Emetia, Mvule, Terminalia, black palms, elephant tree, among others. Additionally, Kipini has a diversity of marine life associated with more than 1,000 coral fish and turtles. Several species of whales, dolphins and the globally threatened dugong can also be sighted. It’s located near Mpeketoni.

5. Lake Kenyatta

There are two small lakes in Lamu County: Lake Amu and Lake Kenyatta. Both these lakes are a vital source of fresh water with many opportunities for survival and growth, and have traditionally supported freshwater fisheries although this is now faced with siltation challenges resulting from farmlands encroaching the riparian. Also known as Lake Mukunganya, the little-known Lake Kenyatta at Mpeketoni covers about 5 km2 fringed by indigenous trees and shrubs used by the natives mainly as wood fuel. Its faunal profile includes almost 140 recorded bird species and plenteous marine life like tilapia, clarias, prottopterus, hippos, bucks and plains game. Lake Kenyatta is found at Mpeketoni just 60 kms before Mokowe Jetty. Also of interest at Mpeketoni are the historic ruins containing a small step end tomb of four risers, turning the corners at the ends, measuring about 1.5 by 2.5 ms, at the location where ‘Mpekatoni Ruins’ are supposed to be.