Lamu County


Attractions in Lamu County

6. Lamu (Manda Bay) Port

The Swahili Coast has a multiplicity of deep inlets which in some cases enclose islands, big and small. Such islands, because of their protected positions and deep anchorages, attracted early settlements. A number of towns like Kilwa and Mombasa are sited on such vantages forasmuch as it pitched Lamu to occupy a prominent place in the trade of the Indian Ocean since the earlier centuries when it was known as far Greece as Azania; or again as Al-Idrisi in the 12th century. In a bid to recapture its former glory, plans are now completed to open a new sea-port at Lamu consisting of 32 deep sea berths. Construction of the initial three berths were finalized in 2020. The inauguration of the Lamu-Witu-Garsen Road has been a knock-on effect in-lieu of movement of cargo from the Lamu Port, which is a part of the ambitious Lamu Port-South Sudan-Ethiopia Transport, more proper LAPSSET Corridor Project, benefitting over 12 counties and constitutes 7 key components. To appreciate the scale of the new port, and perhaps ponder how much it will sway the ways of life of exotic Lamu, this can be reached by hiring one of many hop on hop off boat taxis docked at the jetties.

Lamu (Manda) Port in Lamu County. Image Courtesy of The Star
Lamu (Manda) Port in Lamu County. Image Courtesy of The Star

7. Lamu Island

The inhabitants of the island call it Amu and from this the name of one of the three major Ki-Swahili dialects, Ki-Amu, is derived. The more popular version of the name, Lamu, may be a corruption of Al-Amu, the prefix being the definite article in Arabic. At Mkokoni, northeast of Lamu and Pate near Kiwayu Island, the coastline turns slightly to the west, in a manner suggesting that a fault in the coral ridge may have caused a partial collapse, triggering the combination of sea water and shallow beds of soil to create excellent conditions for the growth of thick mangrove forests. Here the more important islands of Lamu archipelago, Lamu, Manda and Faza, are found. Lamu has an excellent natural harbour and is fringed along the west, north and north-east by mangrove forests. No crops can be cultivated on its sandy soil, but there are shambas or cultivated grounds west of the town where mangoes and coconuts are grown. Lamu Town is set along the north-eastern flank of the island across from Manda Island, ergo it is only reachable by boat. The much-celebrated rich history and present-day life of Lamu Island are inextricably linked. The community of Lamu has learned the value of its history, and the importance of traditions and customs. The values, beliefs and way of life throughout Lamu are all part of a rich culture that grew and expanded with the spread-eagle stone town at the heart of the archipelago.

Spatial Location of Lamu Island in Lamu County
Spatial Location of Lamu Island in Lamu County

8. Matondoni Dau Workshop

As there is no wheeled traffic and the streets are principally used for pedestrian communications, every visitor to Lamu Archipelago should have as an object of their journey to learn more about its boats that are the chief mode of transport here. The variations are as many as they are interesting: mtepe, jahazi, mashua and, of course, dau. The latter is largest and most charismatic of its sea vessels. Lamu’s long-standing success in sea trading relied heavily on the reliability of its locally assembled traditional daus to sail as far as India, Egypt, China and Arabia. The Bajuni tribe – sometimes spelt as Bajun – native to the archipelago has held onto the traditional craft of dau building at a site christened the Dau Workshop. The intricate and laborious knack of building daus, much like the ornate carvings on the doors of Lamu, has existed on the island for 2,000 years. Matondoni Dau Workshop is situated in Matondoni Village in the northern area of Lamu Island, reachable either via the 1.5 kms pathway connecting it to Lamu Town, or via a short boat ride from Lamu Town, Shela Village, or Manda Island.

9. Matondoni Ruins

At Matondoni are three mosques, all of which are still in use. At the north end of the Riyadha (or Friday) Mosque is a tomb which had a 1 ms wide octagonal pillar, a section of which can still be seen on the ground northeast of the tomb. In front of this tomb is another, interesting for the roof of makuti that covers the tomb, resting on the top of the five-riser step ends. About 80 metres south of the mosque is a small tomb with four-riser step ends; on the east wall was a small tombstone, with an inscription too eroded to read. West of the mosque is a recent stone tomb with four piers on each of the side walls and a high central pier on the east and west walls, the purpose of which is to support a makuti roof over the structure. There is a wooden door in the east wall. It was built by the grandson of the deceased, on the mother’s side, and is the object of visitation for prayers. West of the lisikiti va Kuru is a group of five old tombs and a more recent grave. Near the sea is a ruined house with two central and two chambers.

10. Tusitiri Dhow

For many a century Lamu has been an established seafaring community and many local songs and fables narrate of these traditional daus sailing to as far as Arabia and India. Lamu Island is the home of the dau, sometimes called mtepe, which dominate its coastline all day long. On any given day, the channel linking Lamu and Manda Islands is enlivened with finely-crafted daus that stand much higher over the cornucopia of boats and infallibly an eye-catching spectacles for locals and trippers alike as they majestically and effortlessly sail, each leaving in its wake a timeless portrayal of the past, the present and future of Lamu. One of the lionized daus of Lamu is the refurbished “Tusitiri Dhow” that represents the ace of this time-honoured heritage. With her Zanzibar antiques, Swahili textiles and freshly caught, masterfully prepared seafood, few on-board experiences can shimmer so close to the historical tradition of boat travel as this one (Tusitiri Dhow) – Financial Times. Tusitiri has ventured as far south as the Quirimbas archipelago in northern Mozambique, but is usually based in Lamu, where the archipelago is ideal for sailing and adventure. This offers holiday-makers multi day safaris as well as one or half day excursions from Lamu. All tours, half day or one or more nights, are booked on exclusive terms and are tailor-made for each voyage depending on tripper interests as well as the seasons and the tides.

Tusitiri Dhow Based in Lamu. Image Courtesy of Journeys by Design
Tusitiri Dhow Based in Lamu. Image Courtesy of Journeys by Design